The first biography of the extraordinary writer who died in 2020. An officer in the 9th Lancers, Morris was posted to Trieste in 1945. He was the only journalist to accompany the 1953 British Everest expedition and famously got the news of its first ascent back in time for ERII’s coronation; the author of numerous superb books and memoirs; father of four who transitioned genders in 1972 and continued to live happily with her wife for a further five decades. Clements knew his subject for thirty years.