Jansson’s temptation on a winter day, skate with samphire and gooseberries on a summer’s one… A few well-considered, simple but richly pleasing recipes for each season. Brown butter, gremolata, artichokes, salsify, ricotta… as Ryle says, his book is not definitive but rather giving ” a point of view, a suggestion, a way of looking at an ingredient, or a moment, or a meal”. Scores – thankfully – low on the glitz scale.